POST 5: Issey Miyake

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Miyake had always wanted to be a fashion designer, and in 1959 he enrolled in a graphic arts course at Tokyo’s famous Tama Art University. Five years later – in early 1965 – he moved to Paris to fulfil his dream.

He scored a gig with Guy Laroche in only his second year in France, which lasted from 1966, to 1968. In the year that he ditched Laroche, he was snapped up by none other than the Givenchy house of design.

Then in 1969 he moved to New York City to work for Geoffrey Beene and two years later, after earning a good deal of capital, he set up his first creative studio – the Miyake Design Studio, or MDS, in Tokyo. This wasn’t so much a place of design and production, but more a laboratory of sorts, where Miyake started experimenting with various blends of fabric and synthetic textiles.

Soon after this in 1971, Miyake International Incorporated was set up and the Japanese designer launched his first collection. It was exhibited in both New York, where he was residing, and also in Tokyo.

During the ’70s Miyake’s work was largely conceptual – he pioneered a vast array of techniques, many incorporating age-old Japanese traditions – but it was the during 1980s that Miyake stirred the soul of the masses.

Making use of natural fibres and other fabrics, painstakingly researched at the Miyake Design Studio in Tokyo, his designs became hugely successful, not just in high cultural circles, either.

In the ’90s Issey Miyake is largely accepted for kicking off the pleat, which today comes and goes with fashion trends year-in and year-out. His development of the pleating theory revolved around first sewing garments, then finishing them, and finally the pleating.

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Balmain

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Balmain is a French fashion house that was founded by Pierre Balmain.

In the period following World War II, Pierre Balmain was “a king of French fashion” and outfitted stars including Ava Gardner and Brigitte Bardot and the Nicaraguan first lady Hope Portocarrero.His most famous client was Queen Sirikit of Thailand. After Pierre Balmain’s death in 1982, the house was led by Erik Mortensen, described by Vogue as Pierre Balmain’s “right hand.” Oscar de la Renta led the house between 1993 and 2002. Under Pierre Balmain, Mortensen, and de la Renta, the house was known for its classic, luxurious designs.Until 2011, the house was led by designer Christophe Decarnin, whose vision for the house is more modern and edgier. In April 2011, the fashion house announced that Decarnin was succeeded by Olivier Rousteing.

Around 2008 and 2009, the clothing line became extremely popular both among fashion magazines, runways and celebrities.[citation needed] His 2010 collection, shown during Paris fashion week, was said to be “totally retro” and “[brought] back the glitz and glitter of the 1970s disco era.”
Balmain’s father, who died when the future designer was seven years old, was the owner of a wholesale drapery business. His mother and her sisters operated a fashion boutique. Balmain studied architecture at the École des Beaux-Arts, but did not complete his studies. He spent his time there designing dresses. While attending the Ecole des Beaux Arts, Balmain went to Molyneux, who promised to give him a trial. Balmain then left his architectural studies to work for the fashion designer Edward Molyneux, for whom he worked from 1934 until 1939. He joined Lucien Lelong after World War II and opened his own fashion house in 1945. The house showcased long bell-shaped skirts with small waists – a line which later became popular as Dior’s New Look. In 1951 he opened branches in the United States selling ready-to-wear clothes. During the 1950s, Balmain popularized the stole for day as well as evening wear and created a vogue for sheath dresses beneath jackets. His talent as a designer lay in his ability to make simple, tailored suits as well as grand evening gowns, all with the same aesthetic of slender and elegant lines. Balmain also designed the iconic uniform of the Singapore Airlines Singapore Girl, loosely based on the traditional Indonesian kebaya.

Balmain also created perfumes, including Vent Vert (1947), his first successful scent and one of the best-selling perfumes of the late 1940s and early 1950s, Jolie Madame (1953), Ivoire (1979), and Eau d’Amazonie (2006). His first perfume, launched in 1947, bore his company’s Phone Number, Elysées 64-83.

Balmain was nominated for the Tony Award for Best Costume Design and won the Drama Desk Award for Outstanding Costume Design for Happy New Year (1980). Additional Broadway theatre credits include costumes for Sophia Loren in The Millionairess (1960) and Josephine Baker for her eponymous 1964 revue. He also was a costume designer for 16 films, including the Brigitte Bardot vehicle And God Created Woman, and designed on-screen wardrobes for the actresses Vivien Leigh and Mae West. He made a lot of dresses for Dalida.

Post 5 – Tommy Hilfiger

Tommy Hilfiger – a denim legend

Tommy logo

At the age of 18 rather than furthering his education, Tommy started to work in retail.  He went to New York City to buy jeans and bell-bottom pants, which he customised and resold at Brown’s, a local downtown Elmira store.  Tommy opened his own store (The People’s Place) in downtown Elmira. After seven years, The People’s Place went bankrupt, Hilfiger was 25.

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Hilfiger continued designing and eventually caught the eye of a businessman Mohan Muriani who was looking to launch a mens line. With Muriani’s financial support Tommy introduced his first signature collection in 1985.

Store window The relaxed, youthful attitude of his first designs has remained a distinctive hallmark throughout all of Hilfiger’s subsequent collections.  For 25 years, Tommy Hilfiger has brought classic, cool, American apparel to consumers around the world. His designs give time-honored classics a fresh look, and his discerning taste has provided the foundation for the growth of a global brand.

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As Principal Designer, Hilfiger has guided the Tommy Hilfiger Group to become one of very few globally recognized designer brands offering a wide range of apparel and accessories.

Tommy

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger

http://global.tommy.com/int/en/Collections/start/18

http://retaildesignblog.net/2013/04/10/tommy-hilfiger-windows-2013-budapest/

http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/02/11/prep-with-an-edge-from-tommy-hilfiger/

http://www.harpersbazaar.com/archives/bazaar-blog/by_tag/tommy%20hilfiger/

Fashion Designer – Thomas Burberry

Dressmaker Thomas Burberry, born on 27 August 1835 in Dorking Surrey, United Kingdom, founded the Burberry brand when he was just 21 years of age. He completed an apprenticeship at a local draper’s shop prior to opening his own outfitting business called “T. Burberry and Sons” in Basingstoke, Hampshire in 1856.

Thomas Burberry – Brand Founder

By 1870 the business became known as an “emporium” & had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoor attire for local residents & visiting sportsmen who frequently visited the store. Thomas Burberry invented the gabardine in 1880 (a durable, water-resistant yet breathable fabric, in which yarn is waterproofed before weaving). In 1891 Burberry established a wholesale business in London & Thomas Burberry opened his first shop at the Haymarket (now the site of Burberry’s corporate headquarters).

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During WWI Burberry designed military style models of the coats for the British Royal Flying Corps (later known as RAF). The coat had a deep back yoke, epaulets, buckled cuff straps, a button-down storm flap on one shoulder & storm pockets. After the war the Trench coat became popular amongst civilians & was known worldwide as a “Burberry”.

1901: The Burberry Equestrian Knight Logo was developed & registered as a trademark containing the Latin word “Prorsum”, meaning forwards.
1902: Burberry established the “Gabardine” as a trademark.
1909: The “Burberry” was registered as a trademark for the company coats.

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In the 1920’s the iconic Burberry Check, registered as a trademark, was introduced as a lining inside the trench coats. During the 1960’s Burberry was exposed to the fashion scene & the famous check was seen on umbrellas, luggage & scarves. The distinctive tartan pattern is now one of the most recognisable in the world. In the 1980’s the company started to renew its brands & trademarks, accompanied by retail expansion, opening stored in New York & other major cities.

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Clean lines, classic style, and traditional colours (offshoots of the red, black, beige, and white Burberry check). The clothes are striking in their simple beauty.

Burberry London - Men's Tailored Clothing.

Burberry London – Men’s Tailored Clothing.

THE BURBERRY FOUNDATION

“Helping young people realise their dreams through the power of their creativity.”

The Burberry Foundation, established in 2008, is a registered charity in England & Wales. The organisation is dedicated to supporting young people & assisting them to realise their full potential while thriving in the world they are inheriting. The Burberry foundation has inspired over 44,000 young people through generous global donations from Burberry employees & customers.

This has been achieved by the combination of financial support along with the creativity, knowledge & dedication of Burberry employees. In the past Burberry has clothed & encouraged explorers, today the Burberry Foundation continues to do so, by helping young people navigate the uncertain experience of their age & the complex world in which they are living. The Foundation aims to inspire the innate creativity of young individuals with guidance & support, enabling them to develop new skills, confidence & ambition in order to realise their dreams.

Information Sources:
–  Burberry Site & Online Store
–  Thomas Burberry Profile
–  Burberry Group plc
–  The Burberry Foundation – Vision & Contact Details

Post 5: Costume Designer – Valentino Garavani

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Valentino Garavani
Fashion designer
Born May 11 1932 Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani, best known as Valentino, is an Italian fashion designer and founder of the Valentino SpA brand and company.
His main lines include
Valentino,
Valentino Garavani,
Valentino Roma and
R.E.D. Valentino
Consisting of Clothing, Footwear, Glasses, Perfumes and accessories.
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Valentino became interested in fashion while in primary school. growing up in Voghera, Lombardy, Northern Italy, where he apprenticed under his aunt Rosa and local designer Ernestina Salvadeo.In 1959 Valentino started his first studio in Rome, after completing his fashion studies and an apprenticeship with Jean Desses and Guy Laroche in Paris. Where he helped style icon Countess Jacqueline de Ribes sketch her dress ideas. Valentino sketched furiously, between helping with window dressing and greeting clients for the daily 2:30 pm private showings. sadly most of his early sketches were lost. however a smitten of his early sketches were displayed at a Rome exhibition in 1991 and court the eyes of prosperous clients such as Marie-Helene de Rosthschild and Elizabeth Taylor. They were marveled that the DNA of Valentino’s style was already apparent in the layers of white pleats and animal prints.

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His collaboration with Giancarlo Giammetti, who manages the commercial development of the House of Valentino began in 1960. His first collection at the international fashion Gotha in the Palazzo Pitti, Florance, 1962 is a triumphant success. 

 

Valentino – “I have always considered my work as one of a writer. Over the years I wrote only one story, the one of my style, where each collection represents a single chapter” In the hands of new creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, the story continues.

Post :5 – Fashion Designer – Vivienne Westwood

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  Vivienne Westwood was born 8th April 1941 and is a famous British Designer who brought modern punk and new wave* (basically the reinvention of Rock n Roll of the 1960s, it incorporated few kinds of other influences) fashion into the mainstream.
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Vivienne Westwood says “Sometimes you need to transport your idea to an empty landscape and then populate it with fantastic looking people.”[9]                     viviennewestwoodshoe4
The pair of heels designed by Westwood in
which Naomi Campbell famously stumbled while modeling at Westwood’s fashion show in 1993[8
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                                          A Video to watch on the link below.

Westwood started to sell her designs in her husband’s shop “Let it Rock” in1971. When the Sex Pistols, the English Punk Rock band formed in London in 1975, wore the designs from the shop of Westwood, Punk style started to become popular!

  Westwood has very significant impact on changing the fashion and this can still be seen today, her shocking designs were very influencial and were the best proofs of her work. Westwood is widely known asa political activist and this reflects in her designs.
In 1992, Westwood was awarded an OBE, which she collected from Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace
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    Westwood has six exclusively-owned shops; four in London, one in Leeds, and one in Milan. Franchise stores are located in Liverpool, Newcastle, Glasgow, three in Manchester (Spring Gardens in the city centre and two others)[citation needed] and most recently, in FH Mall, Nottingham (20 March 2008),Blake Street, York (11 September 2008) and Cardiff City Centre (September 2012).{http://www.viviennewestwood.co.uk/w/store-directory/united-kingdom} She also has showrooms in Milan, Paris, Los Angeles and Honolulu.